A heat-treated aluminium alloy chosen for its balance of strength, corrosion resistance and light weight. It does not rust, needs no coating, sheds heat well - useful in charge air pipework - and handles vibration and heat cycling without cracking. Our parts use a 1.6mm wall, rated -40C to +220C.

1 metre straight tube, beaded and unbeaded hose joiners, T-piece three-way joiners, 45, 90, 135 and 180 degree elbows, and an off-cut mixed box of assorted tube sections. Outside diameters run from 8mm to 102mm, with joiners in 20 lengths from 50mm to 950mm.

Plan the route, then make it up from straight tube and elbows joined with silicone coupling hoses and clamps. The flexible joints take up small alignment errors, absorb engine movement, and let you dismantle it later. Cut tube with a pipe cutter and deburr inside and out.

Aluminium is lighter, cheaper and rejects heat faster, which makes it the usual choice for intake and intercooler work. Stainless is stronger, far better in salt environments and takes a superior polish, so it suits marine and visible show pipework. Both are rated -40C to +220C and can be mixed in one system.

Yes - a pipe cutter or fine-tooth blade, then deburr both inside and outside so the edge cannot score the hose bore. On beaded joiners, cut from the plain middle section only: cutting near the bead removes the very feature that stops the hose blowing off under pressure.

No. Aluminium forms its own protective oxide layer and survives normal service uncoated. Many people leave it raw or polish it; others anodise or powder-coat to match a build. If you do coat it, mask where the hose clamps on - a thick coating under a clamp can creep and loosen the joint over time.